Sunday, December 28, 2014

Smart phone review: Blackberry Bold 9650

The BlackBerry Bold 9650 smart phone is one of the several models in the Bold series. It is very similar to the BlackBerry Tour (9630) in both appearance and function and users who are upgrading from the Tour will have little trouble adjusting to the Bold 9650.

The 9650 is a rectangular black phone, about four and a half inches tall, about two and a half inches wide and about half an inch thick. It has a 480 x 360 display screen (not a touch screen) above a full QWERTY keyboard. For graphical navigation, it uses a squarish trackpad -- similar to the Tour's trackball or a laptop's trackstick. The trackpad does not get "stuck" like a trackball sometimes does, but it is extremely sensitive and some users may find its sensitivity frustrating.

In addition to the standard 3G connection, the 9650 can connect to both Wi-Fi (802.11b or 802.11g) and Bluetooth networks and devices. Both of these options will drain the battery quickly if they are enabled for long periods of time, so they can be turned on or off as needed.

The 9650 has all of the standard features of a smart phone -- a web browser, a media player that supports both audio and video, a camera (3.2 megapixels) and video camera, GPS capability and much more. It has 512 MB of standard memory and it comes with a 2 GB microSD card. Many BlackBerry apps are pre-loaded (such as BlackBerry Messenger, Maps, MemoPad and Calendar) as well as popular third-party apps like Facebook, MySpace and Twitter. BlackBerry App World allows you to download any other apps you might want or need.

Two convenience keys (one located on either side of the device) allow you one-touch access to programs or features that you use most often. The 9650 can connect to a computer via its USB cable for either data transfer or tethering (to use the phone as a modem).

Since it's not a flip phone, you'll probably want to get a holster or case for the phone. But if you just want to stick it in your pocket, the keyboard can be locked to prevent accidental dialing. Locking and unlocking the keyboard is easily accomplished and the power button lets you quickly turn the phone on or off with one touch. Those who are used to the BlackBerry Tour will find the Bold 9650's boot time to be much quicker.

The BlackBerry Bold 9650 is a highly-functional, easy to use smart phone that is versatile enough to act as either a personal or business phone. Users who are familiar with the BlackBerry operating system and interface will feel comfortable with the 9650 and new users won't find it hard to learn. Depending on your wireless carrier and the plan that you choose, the price of a 9650 will vary, but if you wanted to buy one independently, Amazon.com sells several different unlocked models starting at $89.95.

(Originally published on Helium.com, January 2014)

Wednesday, December 24, 2014

How to replace the power supply in a desktop computer

The power supply is one of the most common components to fail inside a desktop computer. If you don't mind turning a screwdriver, you can replace a bad power supply yourself and save on repair costs.

Before purchasing a replacement power supply:

- Make sure to buy a power supply that is rated for at least the same wattage as your current power supply.
- Verify that the new power supply has all of the necessary connectors that your current one has. You can either check this visually by looking at the connectors that you have, or by making sure your computer is listed as one of the models that the new power supply is compatible with.
- Make sure the new power supply will fit inside your computer's case. (If the new power supply is compatible with your computer, that won't be a concern.)

To install the new power supply:

- Turn your computer off and unplug it from its power source.
- Unplug all of the cables leading from your computer, including the power cable.
- Open the computer's case. (If you're not sure how to do this, you can probably look it up online. Most computers either have screws in the back that come out, a side panel that slides off, or they open up like a clamshell.)
- Disconnect all of the cables leading from your power supply. Note what component each connector plugs into. You should have connectors for your fan(s), hard drive(s), optical and/or floppy drive(s), motherboard (may be one or two connectors), and the front power switch.
- Unscrew the power supply from the system case and remove it.
- Set the new power supply in the case facing the same way as the old power supply and screw it in.
- Attach all of the connectors. (You may have more connectors than components, but make sure each component that was connected before is connected again now.)
- Close the system case and reattach any screws.
- Plug the power cable into the power supply and then into the wall outlet.
- Reattach all other cables.
- Make sure the power switch on the back of the power supply is on.
- Make sure the voltage switch on the back of the power supply is set to the correct voltage (115 volts in the United States).
- Turn on the computer and verify that it boots up correctly.

(Originally published on FixYa.com, January 2011)

Saturday, December 20, 2014

Product review: TRENDnet TU2-ET100 USB to 10/100Mbps adapter

Most new PCs (be it laptop or desktop) come with an Ethernet or RJ-45 network port built in. However, Ethernet ports sometimes go bad, and when they do, it's much cheaper to get an external network adapter than to replace the whole motherboard (or the whole computer). One good network adapter that you can plug into your computer through the USB port is the TRENDnet USB to 10/100Mbps adapter (model #TU2-ET100).

The TRENDnet adapter is a simple device that plugs into any USB port on your computer. The adapter can run at USB 2.0 speeds, but it's also backwards compatible with USB 1.1 or 1.0. Installing it is easy - just pop the CD in and run the auto installer, and then the first time you connect the adapter the driver will be installed. The adapter is Plug & Play compliant, and is compatible with current 32-bit and 64-bit versions of Windows (7, Vista, XP, 2000, ME, and 98SE) as well as Mac OS X 10.1 to 10.6. It can also be used with the Nintendo Wii game system.

The adapter works as a fully-functional Ethernet port, and can connect your computer to a 10Mbps (Ethernet) or 100Mbps (Fast Ethernet) network. It will work in either full-duplex or half-duplex mode, and it has two LEDs that show at what speed the current network is running as well as when data is being transferred. The adapter draws power through its USB cable from the device it's connected to, so no external power supply is needed.

Inside the box, in addition to the adapter itself, you'll find an installation CD that includes the device driver and the user guide, and a paper copy of the quick installation guide. The adapter is not very heavy and it can easily be packed inside most laptop bags or cases.  It consists of the actual adapter box (a small blue rectangular device) and a short USB cable. You can wrap the USB cable around the box with a rubber band for storage. The adapter is a bit bulky for use with a laptop, especially when not used on a flat surface, but if you need an Ethernet port, its functionality will outweigh its awkwardness.

The TRENDnet USB to 10/100 Mbps Adapter can be purchased online from Amazon.com for $13.00, which is less than many comparable adapters. It comes with a three-year limited warranty as well as 24/7 tech support from TRENDnet.

(Originally published on Helium.com, January 2014)

Monday, December 15, 2014

How to set up a static IP address in Windows Vista

Static IP addresses are often used for computers that host specific services, or for computers on small, manually managed networks. To set up a static IPv4 address on a Windows Vista computer, first find an IP address that is not currently in use and is outside the DHCP assignable range (if applicable). Then follow either of the procedures below.

From the taskbar:

1. Right click on the network connection icon in the system notification tray.
2. Select Network and Sharing Center.
3. Under Tasks, select Manage network connections.
4. Right click on the network connection that you want to set up the IP address for (Local Area Connection, Wireless Network Connection, etc.)
5. Select Properties.
6. If the User Account Control window pops up, select Continue.
7. Click on Internet Protocol Version 4 (TCP/IPv4).
8. In the Properties window, click the circle next to Use the following IP address.
9. Enter the IP address that you want to assign to the computer.
10. Enter the subnet mask and default gateway. (For small or home networks, these will typically be 255.255.255.0 and 192.168.1.1, respectively.)
11. Enter the IP address of the DNS server next to Preferred DNS server.
12. If you have an alternate DNS server, enter that IP address as well.
13. Click OK to save the changes.

From the Start menu:

1. Click the Vista orb.
2. Right click on Network.
3. Follow the procedure above, starting with step #3.

Reserving an IP address under DHCP is different from setting up a static IP address, but if you are setting up a static IP address that is within the DHCP range you will need to reserve it too. To reserve an IP address, log into your router's configuration utility and look for a heading such as DHCP or IP Address Distribution. You will probably need either the computer's Windows name or its MAC address in order to reserve an IP address for it.

(Originally published on FixYa.com, January 2011)

Saturday, December 13, 2014

How to adjust the page file size in Windows Vista

The page file (or swap file) is a portion of the hard drive that Windows reserves to use as additional memory when necessary. You can make the page file smaller or larger than its current setting, or you can disable it completely.

To change the page file size:

1. Click the Vista orb.
2. Right click on Computer.
3. Select Properties.
4. Under Tasks on the left hand side, select Advanced system settings.
5. If the User Account Control window appears, click Continue.
6. Click the Advanced tab.
7. Under Performance, click the Settings button.
8. Click the Advanced tab.
9. Under Virtual memory, click the Change button.
10. Select the hard drive that you want to adjust the page file for. (Typically this will be the C: drive.)
11. If Custom size is not already selected, click the circle next to it to select it.
12. Enter an Initial size and Maximum size for the page file in megabytes. The maximum size must be equal to or larger than the initial size, and both values should be at least one and a half times the amount of physical RAM that is installed in the computer.
13. Click the Set button.
14. Click OK to save the changes.
15. Click OK again in the Performance Options window.
16. Click OK in the System Properties window.
17. Reboot your computer for the change to take effect.

If your computer performs erratically after changing the page file size, go back into the settings and either change it back to its previous value or try a new value. Virtual memory errors are a good indicator that the page file is not large enough to handle what Windows needs it to do.

(Originally posted on FixYa.com, January 2011)

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Android app review: Bubble Level

There are times when you find yourself without the right tool for the job. Or maybe you have the right tool, but you can't find it (or get to it). But with the Bubble Level app for your Android device, at least you won't have to worry about finding a level when you need one.

This app lets your Android phone act as a spirit level. You can use any of the four sides of your phone, and a bubble level graphic will appear on the screen, showing whether the surface you are inspecting is level, plumb, or at an angle. The app will even display the degree of angle or incline.

You can also lay your phone flat on a surface and Bubble Level will become a 360 degree level, showing in which direction (if any) the surface is not level. There are portable pocket-sized levels you can stuff in a toolbag or even your pocket, but Bubble Level is with you anywhere your phone goes.  If you feel like it's not giving an accurate reading, you can recalibrate it at any time.

Calibrating or recalibrating the app is easy. Just place the phone on a known level surface and select Calibrate.  You can calibrate each side separately, in case your phone has a button sticking out on one side or a weirdly-shaped case, or something else causing a side to not be perfectly straight. Before any calibration, Bubble Level gave me fairly accurate readings; after calibrating it, it is almost as reliable as my Stanley Pro I-Beam level. Just make sure when you are using the app that the phone is at a perfect 90 degree angle (unless it's flat on its back) -- otherwise your readings will be off.  If you have an OtterBox or other protective case, you may want to remove it before using the level.

Unlike many free apps, Bubble Level is highly customizable. You can change the viscosity of the bubble, turn on eco mode to preserve battery life, enable orientation locking and even turn on sound effects so that the app plays a sound when the phone becomes level. There are no ads that pop up; the developer simply added a very unintrusive "Donate" link toward the bottom of the Preferences menu.

Bubble Level is available for free from the Android Market.  It is compatible with devices running Android version 1.6 or higher and it only takes up a measly 90 KB of space. This app has an average user rating of 4.2 out of 5, from over 66,000 users, and it's been downloaded and installed more than 11 million times.

(Originally posted on Helium.com, January 2014)

Friday, December 5, 2014

How to enable or disable the Sidebar in Windows Vista

The Windows Sidebar, introduced with Windows Vista, is a way to have one-click access to websites and widgets right from your desktop. Some people love the Sidebar and some people hate it. Whichever camp you happen to fall in, enabling or disabling the Sidebar is a painless process.

To disable the Sidebar:

1. Right click on the Sidebar icon in the notification area (a computer screen with different colored blocks on its right side).
2. Select Exit from the menu.
3. If a confirmation window appears, click Exit Sidebar.

To enable the Sidebar:

1. Click the Vista orb and type "sidebar" into the Search bar.
2. From the search results, select Windows Sidebar. (If Windows Sidebar is the highlighted item, you can just hit <Enter>.)
3. The Sidebar will appear, in the same place and with the same widgets as the last time you used it.

An alternate way to enable the Sidebar:

1.Click the Vista orb.
2. Select All Programs.
3. Select Accessories.
4. Select Windows Sidebar.

To configure the Sidebar to load automatically every time you start your computer:

1. If it's not already enabled, enable the Sidebar (using either of the methods described above).
2. Right click on the Sidebar icon in the notification area.
3. Select Properties.
4. Put a check mark in the box next to "Start Sidebar when Windows starts."
5. Click either OK or Apply.

If you have the Sidebar set to load automatically and then you disable it, it will still run every time you start your computer, unless you remove the check mark next to that option in the Sidebar properties.

(Originally posted on FixYa.com, January 2011)

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

How to change the IP address on a Ricoh Aficio MP 6001 / 7001 / 8001 copier

If your Ricoh Aficio MP 6001, 7001, 8001, or 9001 copier is used as a network printer, making sure it has the correct IP address is very important. If you ever need to change the copier's IP address, either because of a conflict or for any other reason, you can do so easily by following the steps below.

With the copier turned on, press the User Tools/Counter button. (If there is currently a job being processed, you'll have to wait until it finishes before going into the User Tools menu.) On the touch screen, select the System Settings button.

A row of tabs will appear on the screen; select the Interface Settings tab. Then select the option for Machine IPv4 Address. The current IP address and subnet mask will be displayed.

To change the IP address, select Change. Selecting Clear will clear out the current IP address and allow you to input the new one. You can use the number pad to enter the digits, and the right and left arrows will allow you to navigate through the four different parts of the IP address. When you have finished inputting the new address, press # (either on the screen or on the number pad).

The subnet mask can be changed if necessary in the same way; select Change and then follow the same steps above to enter a new subnet mask. Once you are finished, select OK to save the new information. You'll be returned to the Interface Settings menu.

If you need to change the gateway address as well, select IPv4 Gateway Address on the screen. This address is changed just like the other two; Clear will erase the current address, and you can use the number pad to enter the new one. Select # when you have finished, and then OK to save the new address.

In order to apply the changes you've made, exit out of System Settings by selecting Exit in the upper right corner of the screen. The options on the screen should gray out for a few seconds as the machine processes the changes, then everything will return to normal. Select Exit again to get out of User Tools. (If the IP address does not appear to have been changed, you may need to reboot the copier.)

After changing the copier's IP address, you'll probably also want to change the IP address that the print driver is configured to use so that they match. The instructions for changing the IP address in your print driver will vary by operating system and print driver version, but in general on a Windows computer, right click on printer's icon in the Control Panel and select Printer Properties (Properties, if you're using Windows XP or Vista) then go to the Ports tab, highlight the correct port if it's not highlighted already and select Configure Port. Here you can change the IP address, then select OK and OK again in the Properties window, to set the new IP address for the print driver.

(Originally published on Helium.com, December 2013)

Thursday, November 27, 2014

How to replace or install RAM in an HP G60-445DX laptop

On most computers, replacing RAM is a pretty straightforward process. It's also one of the most effective ways to increase a system's performance. However, the replacement procedure varies from computer to computer. This article describes how to replace the RAM in an HP G60-445DX laptop computer.

The first thing to do is to figure out what kind of RAM you're replacing the existing RAM with. Typically, the G60-445DX comes with 3 GB of RAM -- a 2 GB memory stick and a 1 GB stick. If you're running a 32-bit version of Windows Vista, that's pretty close to the maximum amount of RAM the system can make use of, but if you're running a 64-bit operating system (and you have a chipset that can support it) you may be able to take advantage of a memory increase. To find out more about the kind and amount of RAM your system needs, visit Crucial.com and run the free memory scanner.

Once you have the new memory sticks and you're ready to install them, power down the computer (using the Shut Down option from the Start menu), unplug it from any power source, and remove the battery. To remove the battery, flip the computer over (after you've closed the computer, of course) and push the tab located just below and to the side of the battery (the long skinny rectangle) all the way to the side away from the battery. When the tab is pushed over, the battery should pop up a little bit. Remove it and store it somewhere safe.

Next, remove the memory compartment cover. This cover is squarish in appearance and is located pretty much in the center of the bottom of the laptop. With a small Phillips screwdriver, remove the two screws securing the cover.  Once the cover is off, you'll see the memory sticks.

Before touching the memory, you should discharge any potential static electricity you might have built up. If you're using an ESD wrist strap or anti-static mat, you should be okay, but most people don't have either of those. Touch something metal, such as a grounding pipe in your basement or a doorknob, before touching your computer's electrical components.

The G60-445DX comes standard with two sticks of memory. To remove each one, release the retaining clips (one on each side) holding the memory in by pushing them away from the RAM to either side. Once they are both released, the memory stick should pop up a little bit. Pull it up to a 45-degree angle and gently remove it from its slot. Repeat the procedure for the second stick.

Be careful when handling both the old and new memory. Avoid touching any part of the stick if possible other than the upper edges -- do not touch the contacts (the gold stripes on the bottom) or the memory itself (the raised black rectangles), and store the old memory in anti-static bags. (The new memory should have come in them -- they are plastic and generally clear blue.)

To install the new memory, insert the sticks just like you removed the old ones -- at a 45-degree angle. Slowly push each one in until you see it slide into place.  (For the interior slot, you may still see the top of the electrical contacts showing when the stick is fully inserted.) Then push it down so it is flat and make sure the retaining clips snap closed. When both sticks are installed, reattach and screw down the cover, then put the battery back in and boot up the computer.

If the computer doesn't turn on, or doesn't start up normally, one or both of the sticks is probably not seated correctly. Turn the computer off, remove the battery, and try it again. (Having to seat the RAM more than once is not uncommon.)

Once you've gotten Windows to load, open the system properties screen. (In Vista, right click on Computer and select Properties.) Verify that the amount of RAM showing is the correct amount. (In 32-bit operating systems, if you have 4 GB installed, all 4 GB will probably not show up.) If the amount of RAM listed is correct, your job is done.

If you've increased the amount of RAM, you'll hopefully notice a boost in system performance. Sometimes you might get a bad RAM stick, so keep the old memory just in case. If you begin to experience system instability problems or memory address errors, there's a good chance one of the new memory sticks is bad.

(Originally published on Helium.com, May 2010)

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

How to replace a Brother MFC-240C ink cartridge

The Brother MFC-240C printer uses an individual ink cartridge for each color (black, yellow, cyan, and magenta).  When one of the cartridges is empty or near empty, the printer will tell you to replace that ink cartridge.  The product codes for the different cartridges are as follows:

* Black = LC51BK
* Cyan = LC51C
* Magenta = LC51M
* Yellow = LC51Y

You can buy each of the cartridges individually, or you can get a pack of the three color cartridges together.  To replace any of the ink cartridges, follow the steps below.

All four of the cartridges are located on the right front side of the printer, behind a gray plastic cover.  Pull the cover forward from the side, where there is a slight cutout for your finger to grab.  When the cover falls forward, you'll see the four ink cartridge holders, coded by color.

For the ink cartridge that you need to replace, push down on the purple handle for that color.  The ink cartridge holder will open and fall forward, revealing the ink cartridge itself.  Push down on the cartridge holder and the cartridge should pop out toward you a little bit.  Grasp the cartridge and remove it.

Open the new cartridge and remove it from its wrapper.  Discard the yellow cover, unless you plan to save it for the old cartridge.

Insert the new cartridge into the correct slot (from left to right, they go black, yellow, cyan, magenta) so that the word "brother" is right-side up and located toward the top of the cartridge.  Once the cartridge is most of the way in, push the ink cartridge holder up by the purple handle until it snaps into place.

If you are replacing more than one color, repeat this procedure for each cartridge.  Then, when you are finished, close the ink cartridge cover.

If you were out of ink or low on ink, the machine should recognize the new cartridge and perform the calibration process.  If it doesn't automatically recognize the new cartridge, it will ask if you have changed one or more of the cartridges.  Press "1" for Yes when it asks about a color that you replaced, or "2" for No if it asks about a color you didn't replace.

Once the printer comes back up to the ready state, print a color test page to verify that everything is working.  If the test page comes out okay, the new cartridge is fine and you can either discard the old cartridge in the trash or save it to recycle.

(Originally posted on Helium.com, June 2010)

Friday, November 21, 2014

QBasic tips & tricks

QBasic, Microsoft's version of the BASIC programming language, isn't widely used by any stretch of the imagination.  However, some people still use it, and it can come in handy for designing simple programs (especially if you have a compiler).  Below are some tips and tricks for getting more done with QBasic.

Microsoft's QBasic editor is smarter than a normal text editor, so you can save some time by letting it do a lot of the formatting work for you.  For example, if you type "10 print a$:input c$:goto 20" you'll see the following line when you press <Enter>:

10 PRINT a$ : INPUT c$ : GOTO 20

Another shortcut is to use a question mark instead of typing out PRINT.  QBasic will translate a question mark (?) as PRINT, as long as you don't put it in quotation marks.  So typing "?number" would become "PRINT number".  (In this example, QBasic would assume "number" is a variable.)

When using the INPUT command, QBasic typically inserts an end-of-line character after the user's input, so anything you want the program to print will automatically start on the next line.  But if you use a semi-colon with INPUT, you can bypass the end-of-line insertion and keep the program on the same line.  So if you wrote a program that consisted of these two lines:

INPUT ; a$
PRINT a$

QBasic would print whatever the user typed in right next to where they typed it, rather than skip to the next line.  If you're using a prompt with INPUT, however, this tip won't work; QBasic will still skip to the next line, even with the semi-colon present.

If you don't use subroutines, you are probably writing a lot of redundant code.  QBasic lets you call subroutines and then return to where you were in the program, so that commands that you would run often can just be typed in once and then accessed as many times as necessary.

Subroutines work well for tasks that must be repeated over and over again without any change.  As an example, if you were writing a self-test program to study for an exam, you could write one subroutine that would get the input from the user, and another subroutine that would take the user's answer and compare it to the correct answer to see if the user was right or wrong.  That way, for each unique question you would only have to give the program the question and the correct answer, and the subroutines could do the rest.  To call a subroutine, use the syntax "GOSUB <line number>", and then putting "RETURN" at the end of the subroutine will give control back to the line that called it.

(Originally published on Helium.com, May 2010)

Saturday, November 15, 2014

How to configure Internet connection sharing (ICS) in Windows XP

Internet connection sharing (ICS) is a method by which you can allow more than one computer on your network to access the Internet by using the connection set up on a single computer.  If you have a router or a wireless access point, ICS is unnecessary, but for those who only have an Internet connection through a single computer, ICS can allow multiple computers to get online at the same time.

To set up ICS, log into the computer that has the active Internet connection.  This computer must have the ability to connect to other computers as well, typically through an Ethernet cable connected directly to another computer, or connected to a hub or switch.

Click the Start button, and from the Start menu right click on My Network Places and select Properties.  If you don't see My Network Places on your Start menu, it should be on your desktop.  If it's not in either of those places, select Control Panel from the Start menu and double click on Network Connections.

In the Network Connections window, find the icon for your Internet connection.  It should be located under the "LAN or High-Speed Internet" heading, and it should say "Connected" underneath the name if you are currently able to get online.  Right click on this icon and select Properties.

Under the Advanced tab, there is a section labeled "Windows Firewall" and then beneath that, a section for "Internet Connection Sharing."  Put a check in the box labeled "Allow other network users to connect through this computer's Internet connection."  In the box beneath that one ("Allow other network users to control or disable the shared Internet connection") remove the check mark, unless you want to give other users that much control over your connection.

Now all you have to do is click OK, and your Internet connection will be available to other users on your network.  (It may take a minute for the settings to take effect.)  When you look at your Internet connection's icon in Network Connections, you'll see an open hand under the icon, indicating that the connection is being shared.

If you have additional services that you want network users to be able to access, you can enable them by clicking the Settings button in the ICS section.  You can choose from the list of services (such as FTP Server, Remote Desktop, or Web Server) or you can create a new one by clicking the Add button.

The other users on your network can now access the Internet from their PCs by opening up My Network Places on their Windows XP computer (or Network, if they're running Windows Vista) and looking for the icon for your Internet connection.  It may not show up right away -- if it doesn't appear, advise them to click Refresh under the "View" menu.

(Originally posted on Helium.com, January 2011)

Tuesday, November 11, 2014

Windows command prompt tips and tricks

Even though DOS is an operating system of the past for most people, it still lives on in the form of the Windows command prompt.  There are many things you can do from the command prompt -- some of which are simpler to do from there than by going through Windows' graphical interface.

If you use the command prompt often, there are many little tips that will make the command prompt easier to use.  For example, when you are typing out a path or a file name, you can abbreviate the name if it is longer than eight characters.  Instead of typing "CD\program files" you could type "CD\progra~1" and save yourself some time.  This may not seem like much of a tip, but it comes in handy when you type a lot of long file names.  The "~1" is used to truncate the file or directory name, so you only need to type the first six characters.

Older versions of DOS did not allow you to use spaces as part of a file name, but newer versions do.  Sometimes when you try to run DOS commands, the spaces will confuse the system, causing the command to not be performed or to be performed incorrectly.  To avoid this problem, use quotes when typing file or directory names, like this:

DEL "test file.dat"

Without the quotes, some commands will look at the second part of the name as a switch or parameter, rather than part of the file name.

There are several DOS commands that display or list information, including DIR and IPCONFIG.  It can be a hassle to have to scroll back up to read information that you missed.  With DIR, you can use the "/p" switch to display one page's worth of info at a time, but other commands don't have this option.  However, you can use the universal "|more" switch.

After any command that displays a lot of information (such as "IPCONFIG /all") add the pipe symbol (|) by pressing <SHIFT> and the backslash (\) and then type "more".  So your command would look like this:

IPCONFIG /all |more

The information displayed by the command will be shown one page at a time.  You can either press the space bar when the system pauses, to display another page's worth of data, or you can press the <ENTER> key to advance the data one line at a time.  The "|more" switch can be used immediately after a command, or with a space in between.

(Originally posted on Helium.com, July 2010)

Saturday, November 8, 2014

How to enable MAC address filtering on a Westell VersaLink 7500 DSL Gateway

Wireless networks are by definition less secure than their wired counterparts.  However, there are certain steps you can take to make a wireless network more secure, including enabling MAC address filtering through your router.  If you're using a Westell VersaLink 7500 gateway to connect to Verizon DSL service, the steps below will guide you through enabling MAC address filtering.

A.  Before you can set up MAC address filtering, you'll need a list of the MAC addresses of all the devices that you want to allow to connect to your network.  In the router's web interface, you can view the MAC address of any device currently on your network by selecting that device under My Network.  This article can also you help you find MAC addresses:  How to find the MAC address of a device.

B.  Open a web browser and type in the IP address of your Westell router.  (This is typically 192.168.1.1 by default.)  If necessary, enter your username and password.

C.  From the Main screen, click the Wireless Settings link along the top of the page.  (If you didn't have to log in before, you'll have to do it now.)

D.  Click on Advanced Security Settings on the left hand side.

E.  Under "Level 3," click on Wireless MAC Authentication.

F.  The Wireless MAC Authentication screen will appear, with instructions.  There is a box about halfway down the screen labeled "Enable Access List" - put a check in the box and then click Apply.

G.  A box will appear to let you know that your wireless access will be temporarily interrupted; click OK.

H.  Click the Add button toward the bottom of the page.  On the next screen, enter the MAC address of the first device you want to allow.  (You can use MAC address filtering to block specific devices as well; if you're entering an address to block, make sure the drop down box next to Traffic is set for Blocked.)  You can enter a descriptive name if you want to, then click Apply.

I.  The address you entered will appear in the box above "Add."  To enter more addresses, click Add again and follow the same procedure for each MAC address.

Once you've added all of the devices that you want to, make sure you can get online from each of them.  A single typo when inputting the MAC address will prevent that device from accessing the Internet.

If you get a new computer down the road, or if someone else wants to get on your network, you'll need to add that MAC address to your list.  You can edit or delete an entry by clicking on the address in the box and selecting the appropriate button, Edit or Delete.  To disable MAC address filtering, go back to the Wireless MAC Authentication page, remove the check mark next to Enable Access List and click Apply.

(Originally published on Helium.com, Sept 2010)

Wednesday, November 5, 2014

How to set up a static IP address in Windows XP

Your computer's IP address is what identifies it on your network. An IP address is like a phone number, uniquely identifying that device so other devices can communicate with it. IP addresses can be either static or dynamic.

Most computer networks use a DHCP (Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol) server to hand out and manage IP addresses. These IP addresses are considered dynamic, because they are only temporary -- after a set amount of time, the lease expires and that IP address is thrown back into the pool to be used by another device.

A Windows XP computer can be set up with a static IP address -- one that doesn't change, even when your computer has been off for an extended time -- with a few simple steps. However, using a static IP address can be tricky, because you need to know which IP addresses are available to use. If you pick an IP address outside the range your network recognizes, your computer won't be able to connect to any other devices, including your router or switch. If you are on a business network, talk to your network administrator before setting up a static IP address. If you are on a home network, check your router's settings to see what range of IP addresses the router uses.

If you currently have a dynamic IP address, you can use that one as your static IP address.  If you're going to pick a new static IP address, try to pick one outside the range of IP addresses that your DHCP server hands out.  For example, if your DHCP server uses the IP addresses from 192.168.1.100 to 192.168.1.150, then you could pick an IP address such as 192.168.1.170.  When picking an IP address, be sure not to pick one that's in use by another computer or device. Using the same IP address for more than one device will cause connection problems.

Once you are sure you want to switch to a static IP address and you have an address picked out, changing the settings is easy. Access the Network Connections window, either by right-clicking on My Network Places (on the desktop or in the Start menu) and choosing Properties, or through the Control Panel. Then choose the connection you want to give a static IP address to (such as "Local Area Connection").  Scroll down the list of services until you get to "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)." Click Properties, and a dialogue box will pop up.

If you currently use DHCP and dynamic IP addresses, the radio button next to "Obtain an IP address automatically" is selected. To change to a static IP address, click the button underneath it ("Use the following IP address"). Input the IP address you plan on using, as well as the subnet mask and gateway address. (The subnet mask is most likely 255.255.255.0 if you are on a home network, and the gateway address will be your router's IP address.)

In order to connect to the Internet, you'll need a DNS (Domain Name System) server. Hopefully your router can perform this function; type your router's IP address next to "Preferred DNS server."

Once you click OK to close out any open windows and save your changes, your computer will assume the new IP address. To verify that Windows applied the change, go back into the command prompt and run "ipconfig" again; you should see the new IP address displayed. Next to the line marked "DHCP enabled" it should now say no instead of yes.

Your computer now has a static IP address. Assuming there is no conflict with any other devices, and assuming the IP address (and other information) you input is valid, your computer will now keep that IP address until you tell it otherwise. To re-enable DHCP, simply go back into the network properties and click the appropriate radio button. (You'll also want to re-enable "Obtain DNS server address automatically.")

(Originally posted on Helium.com, October 2009)

Sunday, November 2, 2014

Android app review: Scantopia

There are many mobile apps that enable you to earn money by using your phone or tablet. Scantopia is one of those apps and while the money-making opportunity isn't great, it is there.

Scantopia is an Android app that you can download on your phone or tablet for free. The idea behind the app is to get you to scan in bar codes. If you're lucky, you can get paid for scanning bar codes.  In addition to cash, you can also win tokens, which can be traded in for entries to various sweepstakes.

One nice thing about this app is that it allows for a lot of freedom. You can pretty much scan anything that has a bar code -- a box of cookies, a granola bar, a printer, a spark plug, etc. It doesn't even have to be an item that you own. You can walk into a grocery store and just start scanning items on an aisle. You can even scan the same item again the next day in many cases.

What you get for each scanned bar code varies, but typical rewards include $0.05, $0.10, one token, or two tokens. You'll also get $1.00 for your first scanned item. You can cash out once you've earned $3.00, in whole dollar amounts only. Payments are made through PayPal, so if you don't have a PayPal account, you'll need to set one up in order to claim your money. Tokens can be redeemed any time you wish for entries into the Progressive Jackpot sweepstakes (with prizes up to $1,000) or various "Weird Sweeps," which offer different prizes including coffee makers and wine fridges.

There are also special products every day that you can earn bigger rewards for scanning, called Daily Super Scans. The rewards for scanning these items often are in the range of $0.10 to $0.50. However, these items often must be scanned from your Home location.

You have to enable GPS to set a Home location, and not everyone will want GPS turned on so that the app can track you. However, if you don't mind allowing the app access to your location, you will get $1.00 for setting your Home location, and you can earn double tokens for items that are scanned from your Home location.

In addition to the pennies or tokens you can earn, you will occasionally be offered a coupon as an additional prize. These coupons (often for $0.75 to $2.00 off) may or may not be for products that you actually use, and they are not really exclusive coupons. They are coupons offered by Coupons.com, which you could download anyway even if you weren't "offered" them by Scantopia.

If it sounds complicated, it's really not. You are allowed 12 scans per day, but you can get more by waiting a half hour or by requesting other people that you know to send you more "energy," which allows you to scan more items. The app uses your phone or tablet's built-in camera to scan bar codes, so other than the app itself you don't need to download or install anything.

You should take your device's data plan into account before using Scantopia. Unless you can hop on a Wi-Fi network, this app can eat up your data allowance. Scantopia can easily use over 5MB of data for one day's scans.

The idea behind the app is neat, but the earning potential is very slight. Even if you get $1.00 for your first scan and $1.00 for setting your Home location, it will still take you a while to earn the $3.00 required to cash out. The time needed to scan all those items could be better spent on other money-making opportunities which could pay far better.

(Originally published on Helium.com, February 2014)

UPDATE: Scantopia is no longer offered for download from the Google Play Store.

Friday, October 31, 2014

How to find the MAC address of a Ricoh MP series copier

If your Ricoh MP series copier has the capability to be used as a networked printer, then it has its own MAC address.  There are two styles of the MP series copiers: the ones that have touch screens (such as the MP2550 or the MP6000) and the smaller desktop models that don't have touch screens (like the MP2000).  The copiers with the touch screens are easy to recognize because the display screen is large and graphical, whereas on the other models the screen is tiny and displays mainly text.

The steps to find your copier's MAC address depends on which style of MP copier you have.  (The steps may vary for some individual models, but they should generally be the same across the board.)


For the touch screen models:

A.  Press the User Tools/Counter key (typically found to the left of the display screen).

B.  On the touch screen, select System Settings.

C.  Select the Interface Settings tab.

D.  Select Machine IPv4 Address on the touch screen.

The MAC address will be displayed on the screen, next to the IP address.


For the non-touch screen models:

A.  Press the User Tools/Counter key (probably in the upper right corner of the operational panel).

B.  Using the arrow keys, scroll down until you see System Settings, then press the OK key.

C.  Scroll to Interface Settings (or IF Settings) and press the OK key.

D.  Select Network.

E.  Select Machine IPv4 Address.

F.  There will be three choices along the bottom of the screen; press the corresponding key for MAC Address (probably the far right one).

The MAC address will be displayed on the screen.


If you would rather have a printout with the MAC address on it, you can print a configuration page on either style of machine.  For the touch screen models, press User Tools/Counter, then go into Printer Features and on the List/Test Print tab (the one that should be active by default) choose Configuration Page.  On the page that prints out, the MAC address will be located toward the bottom, in the "Interface Information" section.

For the non-touch screen models, follow steps A, B, and C above, and then instead of choosing Network, go to Print IF Settings List, and then press the Start key.  Two or three pages may print out, depending on the specific machine, but the MAC address will be located toward the top of the first page.

(Originally published on Helium.com, August 2010)

Wednesday, October 29, 2014

How to troubleshoot a Dynex Wireless Optical Mouse

The Dynex Wireless Optical Mouse (model #DX-WLMSE) is a reliable, highly-functional mouse that has become a popular choice for many consumers.  It is compatible with most modern Windows operating systems, from Windows 2000 to Windows 7.  Like with any electronic device, it will occasionally run into problems, but usually these problems can easily be resolved.  This article is a basic guide for troubleshooting your Dynex Wireless Optical Mouse:

If your mouse is not working, the first thing to do is make sure it's turned on.  There is a tiny on/off switch on the bottom of the mouse; make sure it is flipped to On.  The red light on the bottom of the mouse should come on when you move the mouse.  If it doesn't, the two AA batteries it uses might need to be replaced.

Once you've verified that the mouse is on and has power, it's time to check the connection to the USB receiver.  The receiver is the small black thing sticking out of the computer's USB drive that exchanges wireless signals with the mouse itself.  If the receiver is not plugged into one of your computer's USB slots, it needs to be.

Press the Connect button on the receiver.  A light should start flashing.  Now press the Connect button on the mouse.  Once the connection is established, the light should stop flashing.  If the light continues to flash after you've pressed Connect on the mouse, the connection hasn't been properly made.

Make sure the mouse and the receiver aren't too far away.  Generally, if the receiver is plugged into the front of your computer (or the side, for a laptop) and the mouse is within a few feet, you should be fine.  If you have the receiver plugged into the back of your desktop computer, the computer itself may be interfering with the wireless signal.  Either plug the receiver into the front, or use the USB extension cable that came with the mouse to use a rear USB slot but allow the receiver to come around the computer and maintain a line-of-sight link with the mouse.

Another step to try when the mouse doesn't work is to plug the receiver into another USB port and see if that makes a difference.  If there is another computer available, try installing the mouse on that computer to see if the problem lies with your PC.

If the mouse is working, but is functioning erratically or some features don't work, you may need to reinstall the driver.  You can reinstall it either from the CD-ROM if you have it, or from the Dynex mouse web page.  On the website, scroll down to the "Drivers, Firmware and Software" section and click on "English."

With the Dynex software installed, you will see a mouse icon in the system notification tray that tells you how long your batteries have left.  You can double click on this icon to bring up the Mouse Suite, where you can adjust and customize the mouse's properties, such as what the different buttons do or how fast the pointer moves.

If you've tried all the steps above and the mouse still doesn't work, you probably either have a faulty mouse or a faulty receiver.  The Dynex Wireless Optical Mouse isn't very expensive -- it's much cheaper to buy a new one than to try to have it repaired.  You can often find wireless mice on eBay or Amazon for about ten bucks or less.

(Originally published on Helium.com, August 2010)

Sunday, October 26, 2014

How to configure the default scan settings on a Ricoh MP series copier

On a Ricoh multifunction copier with scanning capability, the scanning options may be configured differently, depending on whether you got your copier directly from Ricoh, from an independent copier dealership, or if you purchased it used. However, you can easily configure the scan settings so that they are to your liking.

This article describes how to change the default scan settings for a Ricoh Aficio MP series copier. Just about any Ricoh Aficio MP copier with a color touch screen and the ability to scan can be configured using the procedure covered below, although for some models (including those with smaller touch screens) a few of the steps may be slightly different.

Press the Scanner button on the left side of the copier's operation panel (or select Scanner from the Home screen) to bring up the scanning screen. Then press the yellow Clear button to clear out any temporary settings that may have been set. The settings you see now (resolution, file type, etc.) are the default settings that the copier uses when you don't select anything different. You can change these settings to suite your needs.

The first step is to select whichever settings you want. If you want to change the default resolution to 300 dpi, go ahead and set that now. If you want to change the default file type to multi-page PDF, set that as well (under File Type). Select any settings that you want to change, but be sure not to change any settings that you want to remain the same.

Once you've selected all of the settings that you wish to change, press the Program button on the right side of the operation panel. Select Program as Default on the touch screen (it may be called something different, such as Program Current Settings as Default), then select Program.  When asked to confirm your choice, select Yes. The settings you've chosen will now be the default settings for scanning.

The default settings for the main scanning screen and the simplified display scanning screen are separate, so if you want to change the defaults for simplified display, you'll have to do that manually. Press the Scanner button, then the Simplified Display button to bring up the simplified display scanning screen. Now select the scan settings you want to save as the default settings. Press the Program button, and on the screen touch Program. You'll be asked to confirm your choice; select Yes.

(Originally published on Helium.com, January 2014)

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

How to fix a Kenmore 70 Series dryer that won't stop running

The Kenmore 70 Series heavy duty dryer can be a pretty good dryer for many homes.  It is simple to operate, has an easily-accessible lint trap, and can run on 120 volts.  However, one problem that may occur with it as the dryer gets older is that it keeps running after its cycle has finished.  When it completes one cycle, it will stop, but if it is left alone it will continue on to the next cycle and start that one.  It will keep running until someone notices and unplugs the dryer or leaves the door open, and it will drain electricity and cause possible damage to your laundry.

Usually the problem can be fixed fairly easily if you don't mind getting your hands a little dirty (figuratively).  The problem is likely nothing more than a faulty switch.  The switch (which sits behind the button you press to start the dryer) relies on a piece of copper to make and break the connection, and this copper piece can become bent or warped over time.  This article will walk you through repairing that switch.  (These instructions were written for the Kenmore 73742 dryer, but the procedure should be similar, if not identical, for the other 70 series dryers.)

The very first thing to do is to unplug the dryer from the outlet so it is not getting any power.  Once it is unplugged, you'll need to either pull the dryer out, away from the wall, or tilt it forward so that you can get to the rear access panel.  Ideally you should pull the dryer out, but there's not always room to do that.  If you tilt the dryer forward, place something sturdy in front of it and underneath it so that there is no chance of the dryer falling either forward or backward and causing harm to anyone in the area or causing damage to the dryer or other appliances.

The switch in question is located behind the dryer's start button (on the right side of the operation panel).  To get to the switch, you need to remove the rear access panel, which is a long metal cover that runs across the upper length of the dryer and is held in place by six slotted screws.  Set the screws and the cover somewhere safe and out of the way.

As you're looking at the back of the dryer, the switch will be on your far left.  It is a small black box with several different wires attached to it.  All of the wires can be pulled off (by pulling on the connector, not the actual wire) though if they've been on there for a while you may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to (gently) pull them off.  Before removing the wires, it's a good idea to either mark the individual connectors or to take a picture of the switch assembly, so that you know where each wire goes when you reattach them.

Once you've removed the wires, you can test the switch if you have a multimeter handy.  Set it to the logic or continuity setting (if it has that feature).  If the multimeter is on the right setting, you should hear a beep or see the display change when you touch the two leads to each other.  Place one lead on either of the upper contacts (the two that come out of the same copper strip) and the other on the lower contact below them, and then push in the start button on the front of the dryer.

Normally you would see a change of state in the switch, signalled by either a beep or a change on the multimeter's display.  However, if the switch is causing your dryer's problem, you won't notice any change on the multimeter when you press the start button.

You can take the switch apart without removing it from its housing, which means one less step when you put it all back together.  To take apart the switch, pry the back off with a small flathead screwdriver or a pocket knife.  If you can pry one side up a little bit and then work on the opposite side, it should pop right out.

The start button has a spring that sits between the button and the switch; make sure you don't lose this spring when the switch comes off.  When you have the switch removed, turn it over to look at the inside.  There is a bent copper strip running along one side -- this is the culprit causing your problem.

The copper strip over time has become bent so that it is always in contact with the switch.  All you have to do is bend it away from the switch's contact enough so that it doesn't rest against it when you reinstall it, but still leave it close enough to make the contact when the start button is pressed.  This will require some trial and error -- bend it a little, reattach it, and test the start button while your multimeter is attached to the two contacts.  When you have the copper piece bent enough so that the switch changes state when you press the button, you've fixed the problem.

Now put everything back together.  Reattach the switch wires, screw the rear panel back on, push the dryer back to its original position, and plug it in.  Then test it by turning it to different settings and making sure it doesn't come on unless you press the start button, but also make sure that when you press the start button it actually starts.  If both of those things happen, you have successfully fixed your dryer!

(Originally published on Helium.com, September 2010)

Monday, October 20, 2014

How to ping from a BlackBerry Tour

Any computer user who has ever tried to troubleshoot a network connectivity issue is probably familiar with the "ping" command.  Ping sends a quick message from your computer to the computer you specify, just asking for a reply.  Assuming the request can make it over the network (or Internet) to the destination computer, and assuming the destination computer isn't prevented from receiving the request or replying by either a firewall or a security policy, that computer will send a reply back to you, and you can verify the connection between the two computers.

If you have a BlackBerry Tour, you can send ping requests directly from the Tour, in addition to sending them from your computer.  To use the ping command from your BlackBerry Tour, follow these steps:

A.  From the main screen, press the BlackBerry button (the one with seven dots to the left of the trackball) to get to your Home folder.

B.  Scroll down until you see the Options folder (with the wrench icon) and select it.

C.  Scroll down to Mobile Network and click on it.

D.  Press the BlackBerry button again to bring up additional options

E.  Scroll down to Tools, and either click on it or move the trackball to the right.

F.  From the list of available commands, select Ping.

Now you should see the Ping screen.  From here you can send ping commands as well as set the parameters you want to use.  By default, a ping command will send four requests of 32 bytes each, but you can change either of those settings if you want.

To send a ping, type in the destination you want to ping, either as an IP address (for example, 192.168.1.8) or as a domain name (like yahoo.com).  Then hit the BlackBerry button and choose Send Ping.

If the pings are successful, you will see "Success!" displayed on the screen, along with the time it took the destination computer to respond.  If the pings do not go through, you will see either the "Ping request timeout" error (which means the destination couldn't be reached) or the "A network error occured" message (which could mean either the destination you entered was invalid or there is a connectivity problem somewhere).  Either way, at the bottom of the screen you'll also see a breakdown of how many of the attempted pings went through successfully and what their average travel time was.

The ping command screen is also where you can view your BlackBerry's IP address, if you ever need to look it up.

(Originally posted on Helium.com, July 2010)

Sunday, October 19, 2014

BlackBerry app review: Password Keeper

Password Keeper is a free application that comes pre-installed on many BlackBerries, including the Curve, Bold, Tour and other models. It can typically be found in the Applications folder and it is designed to allow you to store and organize passwords that you use for websites so that you don't have to remember them all. It can also be used to save PINs, account numbers or anything else that you don't want to have to remember but you don't want anyone else to be able to see.

The first time you use Password Keeper, you can set up a password for the application, so that if someone else gets a hold of your BlackBerry, if they don't know your password, they can't see any of the information that you have saved in the application. This password protects your other passwords and data and even if you leave the program running and switch to another application, you'll be asked to re-enter the password when you come back to Password Keeper.

If you're familiar with using other BlackBerry apps and features such as Tasks, Calendar, or MemoPad, Password Keeper will be simple to use. The basic interface is the same and all of the options can be accessed from within the program by pressing the Menu button (on the Tour, this will be the button with the seven dots to the left of the trackball).

You can easily set up passwords for new websites and the program allows you to store a title for that entry, the website address, your user name, password and additional notes. One nice feature of the program is the ability to change any of the labels, so in addition to storing website passwords, you could store PINs and other information.

The security settings of the program can be customized as well, so you can specify how many attempts you have to enter your password before the program locks you out. You can also use the random password feature to generate a random password for a website and you can tell it whether to include numbers, letters and/or symbols, as well as how long to make the password.

Password Keeper is a good free password vault program. There are more sophisticated programs you can download, many of which cost money, but Password Keeper should be sufficient for most users' needs, and it's easy to use and set up.

(Originally published on Helium.com, August 2011)

Friday, October 3, 2014

How to change the toner on a Ricoh Aficio 1022 / 1027 / 2022 / 2027 / 2510 / 3010 / 2550 / 3350 / 2851 / 3351 / 2352 / 2852 / 3352 copier

Follow the steps below to replace the toner bottle in your Ricoh 1022, 1027, 2022, 2027, 2510, 3010, 3025, 3030, 2550, 3350, 2851, 3351, 2352, 2852, or 3352 copier.

- Open the copier's front door
- Pull up on the green handle on the toner unit
- Push down on the small green lever on the left side of the toner unit
- Slide the toner unit out using the green handle
- Remove the old toner bottle
- Unscrew the black cap from the new toner bottle
- Lay the new toner bottle on the toner tray, top of the bottle facing toward you
- Push the toner unit all the way in using the green handle until it locks in place
- Push the green handle down into place
- Close the copier's front door

Sunday, September 28, 2014

Default passwords for routers and other network devices

Below is a list of default usernames and passwords for routers, access points, firewalls, and other network devices (including cameras).  These usernames and passwords are the defaults used when the router is first taken out of the box, or if you restore the router back to its factory default state.  This list was compiled from user manuals and from personal experience, not from other websites, and more models will be added as often as possible.

The router brand and model will be listed first, followed by the username and password in this format:

username / password

If there is only one field listed for a particular device, then that device uses a password only to login, without a username.  If there is no username or password by default, it will be shown like this:

(blank)

If the device has multiple default logins, the one with greater priviledges or system access will be listed.  For example, for a router with a built-in user login and admin login, the admin login will be listed here.

Below are the network device default usernames and passwords.


Actiontec:
- Actiontec GT701C High Speed Internet DSL Modem:    admin / password
- Actiontec GT701D DSL Modem:   admin / password
- Actiontec GT704WG Wireless DSL Gateway:    admin / password
- Actiontec MI424WR Wireless Broadband Router:   admin / password

Asus:
- Asus RT-AC66U Dual Band 3x3 802.11AC Gigabit Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-AC68P Dual Band 3x3 Wireless-AC 1900 Gigabit Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-N10P Superspeed Wireless N Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-N12 D1 / RT-N12 HP Superspeed Wireless N Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-N16 Multi-functional Gigabit Wireless N Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-N56U Dual-band Wireless-N Gigabit Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-N65U Dual-band Wireless-N750 Gigabit Router:   admin / admin
- Asus RT-N66U Dark Knight Dual Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router:   admin / admin
- Asus WL-520GU Wireless Router:   admin / admin

Belkin:
- Belkin F5D7230-4 Wireless G Router:    (blank)
- Belkin F5D8231-4 N1 Wireless Router:   (blank)
- Belkin F5D8235-4 N+ Wireless Router:   (blank)
- Belkin F9K1002 N300 Wireless N Router:  (blank)

Billion:
- Billion BiPAC 8800NL ADSL2/2+ Modem / VDSL2 Modem / Wireless N Router:   admin / admin

Cisco:
- Cisco 1240AG Series Aironet Access Point:   Cisco / Cisco
- Cisco WRV210 Wireless-G VPN Router with RangeBooster:   admin / admin

Comcast:
- XFINITY Wireless Gateway:   admin / password

D-Link:
- D-Link DCS-5009L Pan & Tilt Day/Night Network Camera:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DCS-932L Wireless N Day/Night Home Network Camera:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DG-104S VoIP Station Gateway:   (blank) / (blank)
- D-Link DG-104SH VoIP Station Gateway:   (blank) / (blank)
- D-Link DGL-5500 AC1300 Gaming Router:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DGS-1210-10P / DGS-1210-20 / DGS-1210-28 / DGS-1210-52 / DGS-1210-28P Web Smart Switch:   admin / admin
- D-Link DI-614+ AirPlus Enhanced 2.4GHz Wireless Broadband Router:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DIR-825 Xtreme N Dual Band Gigabit Router:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DIR-830L Wireless AC1200 Dual Band Cloud Router:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DIR-859 Wireless AC1750 High Power Wi-Fi Gigabit Router:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DIR-890L Wireless AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DIV-140 Analog Trunk Gateway:   admin / password
- D-Link DNS-340L ShareCenter + 4-Bay Cloud Network Storage Enclosure:   admin / (blank)
- D-Link DSN-6200 Series / DSN-6500 Series IP SAN Storage:   admin / 123456

Edimax:
- Edimax AR-7167WnA / AR-7167WnB N150 Wireless ADSL Modem Router:  admin / 1234
- Edimax BR-6208AC / BR-6208ACD AC750 Multi-Function Concurrent Dual-Band Wi-Fi Router:  admin / 1234
- Edimax ES-5160G+ 16-Port GbE Web Smart Switch:   admin
- Edimax EW-7428HCn N300 High Power Wireless Ceiling Mount Range Extender/Access Point:  admin / 1234
- Edimax PS-1206MFg Wireless / Fast Ethernet MFP Server:  admin / 1234

Hewlett-Packard:
- Hewlett-Packard JetDirect 620n / en3700 / ew2400 Print Server:   Admin / (blank)

Lantronix:
- Lantronix xPrintServer (Cloud Print / Home / Network / Office Editions):   admin / PASS

Linksys:
- Linksys BEFW11S4 Wireless-B Broadband Router:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys E1000 Wireless-N Router:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys E900 / E1200 / E1500 / E2500 / E3200 / E4200 E-Series Router:   admin / admin
- Linksys EA2700 / EA3500 / EA4500 / EA6500 EA-Series Smart Wi-Fi Router:   admin / admin
- Linksys SPA2102 VoIP Phone Adapter with Router:   admin / (blank)
- Linksys WAP610N Wireless-N Access Point with Dual-Band:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys WRT160N Wireless-N Broadband Router:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys WRT310N Wireless-N Gigabit Router:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys WRT54G Wireless-G Broadband Router:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys WRT54GL Wireless-G Broadband Router:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys WRT54GS Wireless-G Broadband Router with SpeedBooster:   (blank) / admin
- Linksys WRT610N Simultaneous Dual-N Band Wireless Router:   admin / admin
- Linksys WVC80N Wireless-N Internet Home Monitoring Camera:   admin / admin
- Linksys X2000 Wireless-N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / admin

Motorola:
- Motorola SBG900 Wireless Cable Modem Gateway:   admin / motorola

NetComm:
- NetComm 3G22WV 3G WiFi Router with Voice:   admin / admin [if reset: admin / (blank)]
- NetComm 4G100W 4G LTE WiFi Router:   admin / admin
- NetComm HS1200N Wireless N Hotspot:   admin / admin
- NetComm NTC-40 Series HSPA+ M2M WiFi Router:   root / admin
- NetComm NTC-6000 Series Industrial HSPA Cellular Router:   root / admin

Netgear:
- Netgear AC1900 Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router R7000:   admin / password
- Netgear DGN2200v4 N300 Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / password
- Netgear DGND3700v2 N600 ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / password
- Netgear FVS318N ProSafe Wireless-N 8-Port Gigabit VPN Firewall:   admin / password
- Netgear R6250 Smart WiFi Router:   admin / password
- Netgear R7300DST AC1900 DST Router:   admin / password
- Netgear RP614 Web Safe Router:   admin / password
- Netgear RP614v4 Cable/DSL Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WG102 ProSafe 802.11g Wireless Access Point:   admin / password
- Netgear WGR614v7 54 Mbps Wireless Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WN604 Wireless N150 Access Point:   admin / password
- Netgear WN802Tv2 Wireless-N Access Point:   admin / password
- Netgear WNDR3400 N600 Wireless Dual Band Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNDR3400v2 N600 Wireless Dual Band Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNDR3700v3 N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNDR4000 N750 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNDR4300 N750 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR1000 N150 Wireless Router:  admin / password
- Netgear WNR1000v2 Wireless-N 150 Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR1000v3 N150 Wireless Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR2000 Wireless-N Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR2000v2 Wireless-N 300 Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR2000v3 N300 Wireless Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR2200 N300 Wireless Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR3500 RangeMax Wireless-N Gigabit Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR3500L N300 Wireless Gigabit Router:   admin / password
- Netgear WNR3500Lv2 N300 Wireless Gigabit Router:   admin / password

Onion:
- Onion Omega2 / Omega2+ IoT Computer:   root /  onioneer

Seagate:
- Seagate BlackArmor NAS 110 Server:   admin / admin

Technicolor:
- Technicolor MediaAccess TC8305C:   admin / password

TP-Link:
- TP-Link AC1750 Archer C7 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link AC1750 Archer D7 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TD-W8101G 54Mbps Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Router:  admin / admin
- TP-Link TD-W8901G 54Mbps Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TD-W8951ND 150Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TD-W8960N 300Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TD-W8961ND 300Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TL-PS110U V1 Single USB2.0 Port Fast Ethernet Print Server:   admin / (blank)
- TP-Link TL-PS110U V2 Single USB2.0 Port Fast Ethernet Print Server:   admin / (blank)
- TP-Link TL-WA750RE 150Mbps Universal WiFi Range Extender:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TL-WDR3600 N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:    admin / admin
- TP-Link TL-WR700N 150Mbps Wireless N Mini Pocket Router:   admin / admin
- TP-Link TL-WR740N / TL-WR741ND 150Mbps Wireless N Router:   admin / admin

TRENDnet:
- TRENDnet TEW-647GA N300 Wireless Gaming Adapter:  admin / (blank)
- TRENDnet TEW-652BRP N300 Wireless Home Router:  admin / admin
- TRENDnet TEW-687GA 450Mbps Wireless N Gaming Adapter:  admin / admin

Ubee:
- Ubee DDW2600 U10C037 Wireless Cable Modem:   user / user
- Ubee DDW3612 Wireless Cable Modem Gateway:   user / user

Verizon:
- Verizon FiOS MI424WR Wireless Broadband Router:   admin / password

Virgin / Virgin Mobile:
- Virgin MF90C 4G Wi-Fi Hotspot:   admin
- Virgin Mini WiFi Modem:   admin

WatchGuard:
- WatchGuard CL4AE24 Firebox M4600:   admin / readwrite
- WatchGuard DS2AE3 Firebox T10-D:   admin / readwrite

Westell:
- Westell 7500 VersaLink Wireless Gateway:   admin / password

Western Digital:
- Western Digital WD TV Live Hub:   admin

ZTE:
- ZTE MF90C 4G Wi-Fi Hotspot:   admin

Default IP addresses for routers and other network devices

Below are the default IP addresses (also called the default gateway or gateway IP address in the case of routers and gateways) for different makes and models of routers, gateways, access points, firewalls, range extenders, and other network devices.  More will be added as I come across them.  (Note: This information is collected directly from user manuals or from personal experience -- not from other websites.)  Most of these routers will have a default subnet mask of 255.255.255.0.

If (DHCP) is displayed after a device on this list instead of an IP address, then that device by default is set up to request an IP address from the network's DHCP server; it does not come pre-configured with its own static IP address.

If the device requires a specific port to be typed after the IP address in order to access the device's web interface, that port will be included as well, in the format:

192.168.1.1:8080

where the number after the colon (:) is the port number.


Actiontec:
- Actiontec GT701C High Speed Internet DSL Modem:   192.168.1.1
- Actiontec GT701D DSL Modem:   192.168.0.1
- Actiontec GT704WG Wireless DSL Gateway:   192.168.1.1
- Actiontec GT784WNV Wireless DSL Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- Actiontec MI424WR Wireless Broadband Router:   192.168.1.1
- Actiontec V1000H Wireless VDSL Modem Router:   192.168.0.1

Asus:
- Asus RT-AC66U Dual Band 3x3 802.11AC Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-AC68P Dual Band 3x3 Wireless-AC 1900 Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-N10P Superspeed Wireless N Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-N12 D1 / RT-N12 HP Superspeed Wireless N Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-N16 Multi-functional Gigabit Wireless N Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-N56U Dual-band Wireless-N Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-N65U Dual-Band Wireless-N750 Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus RT-N66U Dark Knight Dual Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Asus WL-520GU Wireless Router:   192.168.1.1

Belkin:
- Belkin F5D7230-4 Wireless G Router:   192.168.2.1
- Belkin F5D8231-4 N1 Wireless Router:   192.168.2.1
- Belkin F5D8235-4 N+ Wireless Router:   192.168.2.1
- Belkin F7D1401au Basic Wireless Modem-Router:   192.168.2.1
- Belkin F9K1001 N150 Wireless Router:   192.168.2.1
- Belkin F9K1002 N300 Wireless N Router:   192.168.2.1
- Belkin F9K1105V3 N450 DB Wireless N Router:   192.168.2.1

Billion:
- Billion BiPAC 8800NL ADSL2/2+ Modem / VDSL2 Modem / Wireless N Router:   192.168.1.254

Cisco:
- Cisco 1240AG Series Aironet Access Point:   (DHCP)
- Cisco DPC3939 DOCSIS 3.0 16x4 Wireless Residential Voice Gateway:   10.0.0.1
- Cisco WRV210 Wireless-G VPN Router with RangeBooster:   192.168.1.1

Comcast:
- XFINITY Wireless Gateway:   10.0.0.1

D-Link:
- D-Link DCS-5009L Pan & Tilt Day/Night Network Camera:   192.168.0.20
- D-Link DCS-932L Wireless N Day/Night Home Network Camera:   (DHCP)
- D-Link DG-104S VoIP Station Gateway:   10.1.10.4
- D-Link DG-104SH VoIP Station Gateway:   10.1.10.4
- D-Link DGL-5500 AC1300 Gaming Router:   192.168.0.1
- D-Link DGS-1210-10P / DGS-1210-20 / DGS-1210-28 / DGS-1210-52 / DGS-1210-28P Web Smart Switch:   10.90.90.90
- D-Link DI-614+ AirPlus Enhanced 2.4GHz Wireless Broadband Router:   192.168.0.1
- D-Link DIR-825 Xtreme N Dual Band Gigabit Router:   192.168.0.1
- D-Link DIR-830L Wireless AC1200 Dual Band Cloud Router:   192.168.0.1
- D-Link DIR-859 Wireless AC1750 High Power Wi-Fi Gigabit Router:   192.168.0.1
- D-Link DIR-890L Wireless AC3200 Ultra Wi-Fi Router:   192.168.0.1
- D-Link DIV-140 Analog Trunk Gateway:   10.0.0.1
- D-Link DNS-340L ShareCenter + 4-Bay Cloud Network Storage Enclosure:   (DHCP)
- D-Link DSN-6200 Series / DSN-6500 Series IP SAN Storage:   192.168.0.32

Edimax:
- Edimax AR-7167WnA / AR-7167WnB N150 Wireless ADSL Modem Router:   192.168.2.1
- Edimax BR-6208AC / BR-6208ACD AC750 Multi-Function Concurrent Dual-Band Wi-Fi Router:   192.168.2.1
- Edimax ES-5160G+ 16-Port GbE Web Smart Switch:  192.168.1.1
- Edimax EW-7428HCn N300 High Power Wireless Ceiling Mount Range Extender/Access Point:   192.168.2.2
- Edimax PS-1206MFg Wireless / Fast Ethernet MFP Server:   192.168.2.2

Hewlett-Packard:
- Hewlett-Packard JetDirect 620n / en3700 / ew2400 Print Server:   (DHCP) or 192.0.0.192

Lantronix:
- Lantronix xPrintServer (Cloud Print / Home / Network / Office Editions):   (DHCP)

Linksys:
- Linksys BEFW11S4 Wireless-B Broadband Router:    192.168.1.1
- Linksys E1000 Wireless-N Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys E900 / E1200 / E1500 / E2500 / E3200 / E4200 E-Series Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys EA2700 / EA3500 / EA4500 / EA6500 EA-Series Smart Wi-Fi Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys SPA2102 VoIP Phone Adapter with Router:   192.168.0.1
- Linksys WAP610N Wireless-N Access Point with Dual-Band:   (DHCP)
- Linksys WGR614 Cable/DSL Wireless Router: 192.168.0.1
- Linksys WGR614v6 54 Mbps Wireless Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WGR614v10 Wireless-G Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WRT160N Wireless-N Broadband Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WRT310N Wireless-N Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WRT54G Wireless-G Broadband Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WRT54GL Wireless-G Broadband Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WRT54GS Wireless-G Broadband Router with SpeedBooster:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WRT610N Simultaneous Dual-N Band Wireless Router:   192.168.1.1
- Linksys WVC80N Wireless-N Internet Home Monitoring Camera:   (DHCP)
- Linksys X2000 Wireless-N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1

Motorola:
- Motorola SBG900 Wireless Cable Modem Gateway:   192.168.100.1 or 192.168.0.1

NetComm:
- NetComm 3G22WV 3G WiFi Router with Voice:   192.168.20.1
- NetComm 4G100W 4G LTE WiFi Router:   192.168.20.1
- NetComm HS1200N Wireless N Hotspot:   192.168.110.1 / 192.168.120.1
- NetComm NTC-40 Series HSPA+ M2M WiFi Router:   192.168.1.1
- NetComm NTC-6000 Series Industrial HSPA Cellular Router:   192.168.20.1

Netgear:
- Netgear AC1900 Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router R7000:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear DGN2200v4 N300 Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.0.1
- Netgear DGND3700v2 N600 ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear FVS318N ProSafe Wireless-N 8-Port Gigabit VPN Firewall:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear R6250 Smart WiFi Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear R7300DST AC1900 DST Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear RP614 Web Safe Router:   192.168.0.1
- Netgear RP614v4 Cable/DSL Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WG102 ProSafe 802.11g Wireless Access Point:   192.168.0.229
- Netgear WGR614v7 54 Mbps Wireless Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WN604 Wireless N150 Access Point:   192.168.0.100
- Netgear WN802Tv2 Wireless-N Access Point:   192.168.0.233
- Netgear WNCE2001 Universal WiFi Internet Adapter:   192.168.1.251
- Netgear WNDR3400 N600 Wireless Dual Band Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNDR3400v2 N600 Wireless Dual Band Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNDR3400v3 N600 Wireless Dual Band Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNDR3700v3 N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNDR4000 N750 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNDR4300 N750 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR1000 N150 Wireless Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR1000v2 Wireless-N 150 Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR2000 Wireless-N Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR2000v2 Wireless-N 300 Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR2000v3 N300 Wireless Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR3500 RangeMax Wireless-N Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR3500L N300 Wireless Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1
- Netgear WNR3500Lv2 N300 Wireless Gigabit Router:   192.168.1.1

Onion:
- Onion Omega2 / Omega2+ IoT Computer:   192.168.3.1

Seagate:
- Seagate BlackArmor NAS 110 Server:   (DHCP)

Technicolor:
- Technicolor MediaAccess TC8305C:   10.0.0.1

TP-Link:
- TP-Link AC1750 Archer C7 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   192.168.0.1 (192.168.1.1)
- TP-Link AC1750 Archer D7 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- TP-Link TD-W8101G 54Mbps Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Router:  192.168.1.1
- TP-Link TD-W8901G 54Mbps Wireless ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- TP-Link TD-W8951ND 150Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- TP-Link TD-W8960N 300Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- TP-Link TD-W8961ND 300Mbps Wireless N ADSL2+ Modem Router:   192.168.1.1
- TP-Link TL-PS110U V1 Single USB2.0 Port Fast Ethernet Print Server:   192.168.0.10
- TP-Link TL-PS110U V2 Single USB2.0 Port Fast Ethernet Print Server:   192.168.0.10
- TP-Link TL-WA750RE 150Mbps Universal WiFi Range Extender:   192.168.0.254
- TP-Link TL-WDR3600 N600 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router:   192.168.0.1
- TP-Link TL-WR740N / TL-WR741ND 150Mbps Wireless N Router:   192.168.0.1

TRENDnet:
- TRENDnet TEW-647GA N300 Wireless Gaming Adapter:  (DHCP, after set up)
- TRENDnet TEW-652BRP N300 Wireless Home Router:   192.168.10.1
- TRENDnet TEW-687GA 450Mbps Wireless N Gaming Adapter:   192.168.10.110
- TRENDnet TW100-S4W1CA Broad Band IP Gateway + 4-Port Fast Ethernet Switch:   192.168.1.254

Ubee:
- Ubee DDW2600 U10C037 Wireless Cable Modem:   192.168.0.1
- Ubee DDW3612 Wireless Cable Modem Gateway:   192.168.0.1

Verizon:
- Verizon FiOS MI424WR Wireless Broadband Router:   192.168.1.1

Virgin / Virgin Mobile:
- Virgin MF90C 4G Wi-Fi Hotspot:   192.168.0.1
- Virgin Mini WiFi Modem:   192.168.0.1

WatchGuard:
- WatchGuard CL4AE24 Firebox M4600:   10.0.1.1:8080
- WatchGuard DS2AE3 Firebox T10-D:   10.0.1.1:8080

Westell:
- Westell 7500 VersaLink Wireless Gateway:   192.168.1.1


ZTE:
- ZTE MF90C 4G Wi-Fi Hotspot:   192.168.0.1